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Koji Dinner

Posted on June 1, 2013 at 10:10 AM Comments comments (1)

I am in San Francisco doing several food events. One that we just finished on May 28 is a dinner at Tartine, themed around Koji - fermented rice. We "kojiied" so many foods - we used it to marinate beef, veggies, fish, even the daikon garnish of my soba. 


I made 120 servings of soba - a record. I had Lori, one of the bakers from Bar Tartine, help me knead the dough so I managed to produce stable noodles. Pretty happy with the result and it was a sell out night. Several reviews came out of SF Chronicle.   Here is the first one.



Fresh bamboo - locally grown and delcious

Posted on May 26, 2013 at 3:55 PM Comments comments (0)

Here is a story I wrote about locally grown bamboo shoots from Penryn Orchard Specialities.

Shio-Koji - Cooking with Koji

Posted on May 20, 2013 at 10:50 AM Comments comments (2)


I have been working in the bay area since the beginnning of the year, teaching soba and doing events at Google to introduce Japanese rice.  I have also preparing for a koji event at Bar Tartine, one of my friend restaurants in the Bay area. The koji themed dinner is happening on May 28.  Here is a story that came out about Koji. 

http://www.sfchronicle.com/recipes/article/Traditional-Japanese-koji-turns-into-versatile-4526837.php#src=fb

Onigiri- Redefining fast food

Posted on March 22, 2013 at 3:30 PM Comments comments (1)

A story I wrote for the LA Times got re-published in Daily Dish.  It's always nice when you have repeat readers and curious cooks who want to try something new. Here is the link. 





Ana in Highland Park

Posted on March 22, 2013 at 12:35 AM Comments comments (0)







Gnocchis with Nettles in a Parmesan Broth

Posted on March 22, 2013 at 12:35 AM Comments comments (0)

Daffodails brighten the high dessert

Posted on March 18, 2013 at 10:40 AM Comments comments (0)
During spring time, Daffodials come up and brighten up the dessert.  The flowers remind me of the ranchers inhabited the land before.  I spent the whole day pulling weeds, mulching and planting more seeds.  Ana keeps me company.  

Spring in Tehachapi

Posted on March 18, 2013 at 12:50 AM Comments comments (0)
The cherry and almond trees are the first to bloom in Tehachapi.  I hope the weather stays stable so we don't loose the fruit like we did last year from the late snow.

Onigiri and Miso Soup Workshop at 24th Street Elementary School

Posted on March 18, 2013 at 12:35 AM Comments comments (0)


When it comes to cooking classes, I enjoy working with children the most.  Here is a story on the onigiri and miso soup workshop at 24th Street Elementary School in downtown LA. (here is the link)

Morning walk - Tehachapi

Posted on March 2, 2013 at 11:25 PM Comments comments (0)

Blood Orange Agar Agar Jelly

Posted on February 26, 2013 at 10:20 AM Comments comments (0)


Blood orange is one of my favorite citrus fruit.  I love its bright ruby color and the sweet orange flavor.  The season is not very long so I buy dozens, and use them to make juice and sometimes to make jellies.  



At the recent soba workshop in San Francisco Cooking School, I introduced blood orange agar agar dessert.  I love this dessert because agar agar jellies are simple to make, and so refreshing.  I make this with different types of fruit purees and juices.  Citrus fruit in the winter, strawberries in the spring, stone fruits and berries in the summer, and persimmon in the fall.  I can have colorful seasonal desserts all year round.


Recipe:

400 ml Fruit puree or juice (blood orange, persimmons, pineapple, strawberries, any seasonal fruit – one or a combination of fruits)

2-2 gram bag of Agar Agar (Kanten Powder)

4 tbls cane sugar to taste 100 ml boiling water Mint for garnish Sauce (optional)

Mint


Instructions:

Combine the agar agar powder and sugar in the boiling water and mix well. Add the puree or juice and continue mixing for a minute. Pour the mixture into a mold. Refrigerate.  Garnish the jelly with mint and serve.

Pruning old vines & Sowing wildflower seeds

Posted on January 28, 2013 at 11:00 AM Comments comments (0)



There is always work waiting for us in Tehachapi.  If we could be there everyday to attend to the ranch, it would be an ideal situation but at the moment, more than half of our time is spent in Los Angeles.  Coming to Tehachapi is a getaway.  

This time of the year is especially quiet and the weather is always changing.  We had light rian the whole time and the temperature was in the 40s.  Unlike Los Angeles that has been on the 60s, it's winter here and some of the rain turned into snow in the hills behind us, giving it a light white coat.  

I decided to plant some wild flower seeds.  I have accumulating a collection of seeds - poppies, lupine, mixed wild flowers.  When we first bought the land nearly 18 months ago, we saw a lot of wildflowers in our fields but last season was dry and hardly any wildflowers in sight.   This year, we may be lucky.  The hills are getting greener and we may get a few more showers and snow.  The high dessert is unpredictable.  I hope my wild flowers bloom. I planted them near the mailboxes so people can enjoy them as they are driving down Balducci Road.



Wild Parrots - Pasadena

Posted on January 28, 2013 at 10:30 AM Comments comments (0)

 

Today, I counted 21 wild parrots on my neighbor's maple tree.  I  meet the wild flock up close during the last week of our year in Pasadena.  We are moving to Highland Park.  The parrots' screaming voices wake you up in the morning like a noisy dream. In the afternoon, you hear them again, but it's more of a yearning to get home, wherever that maybe.  They remind of me of the crows in Japan and how my mother used to sing crow song whenever she saw a flock.                                                                                                                                                                                                                           

 

Soboro Chicken

Posted on January 26, 2013 at 1:10 PM Comments comments (0)



I spent the morning working on a recipe I am going to be using for a cooking workshop in Mountain View.  The theme is rice so I came up with one of my favorite topping for rice - soboro chicken.  Actually, there are more toppings than just the ginger flavored ground chicken.  In this bowl, I topped the soboro chicken with snow peas, scrambled eggs and put a pickled ginger as the garnish.  You can make the soboro chicken and freeze it.  So it comes handy when you are busy, which is often my case.

SOBORO CHICKEN
2-3 servings

12 ounces ground chicken (use thigh meat with some fat) 1/2 onion, minced. 1 carrot, minced. ½ cup of dashi (katusobushi/konbu base stock) 1/4 cup sake 3 tbls soy sauce 2 Tbls mirin (sweet sake) 1.5 tbls sugar 1 tbls juice of grated ginger 1 tbls Vegetable oil for sauteing 1.5 tsp of ground Kuzu powder, mixed with 2 tbls of water to dissolve. (optional) 2-3 cups of cooked Japanese short grain rice. Toppings: (Help yourself to any two or three of your favorite toppings) Sakai suggest 3 toppings: red, green, and yellow toppings for color and flavor. (See picture) • Amazu shoga - Pickled ginger (1 tbls per person) – homemade or commercial brand (without MSG) • Cooked snow peas, blanched and sliced thinly at an angle (2 snow peas per person) • *Scrambled eggs (2 tbls per person) (see recipe below) • Thinly Cut Nori seaweed (1 tbls per person) • Sliced chives (1 tbls per person) • Roasted sesame seeds (1/2 teaspoon per person) SOBORO CHICKEN RECIPE INSTRUCTIONS: Make the dashi in advance. Heat the oil in a sauté pan over medium heat. Add the ground chicken and fry until the meat is crumbly and loose,
using a bundle of chopsticks to break the meat apart into very fine and even crumbles. To the chicken mixture, add dashi, sake, mirin, sugar, soy sauce and simmer for 7-8 minutes until
80% of the liquid is absorbed. Stir occasionally. Add the ground ginger. Taste and adjust the
seasonings if necessary. If the Soboro Chicken appears dry, add a few more tablespoons of dashi.
Then add the kuzu mixture into the soboro and stir. When you get a shiny coat, turn off heat. Set the pan aside. To serve: Serve steamed rice with a scoop of warm soboro chicken and garnish with toppings of your choice.
(See above suggestions). *Scrambled egg topping recipe: (2-3 servings) 2 eggs 1 Tbls Mirin 1 pinch salt Vegetable oil for sautéing To make the scrambled eggs, combine the eggs with mirin and salt in a bowl and mix well. Heat the frying pan with vegetable oil, and pour the egg into the pan. Turn heat to a low
and scramble the eggs with a bundle of chopsticks to resemble the soboro chicken.
Be careful not to overcook or burn the eggs. Remove from heat and set aside.

Soba internship at Hosokawa

Posted on December 13, 2012 at 4:00 PM Comments comments (0)
Soba Master Hosokawa boiling soba noodles.

Doing an internship in a Michilen star restaurant is not easy.  Most chef look for someone young and eager. Not someone over fifty like me.   Hosokawa is a chef who is notorious for being a perfectionist, tough and uncompromising,  He has gone through a lot of apprentices but many don't last, and none of his three sons have followed his path.  But if put his disciplinarian style persona aside, Hosokawa serves the most elegant soba, edo-style.  100% milled and hand made on the premises of his small shop.  The buckwheat,  the vegetable, the eel andr oysters -are all personally selected carefully - he deals directly with farmers and fishermen and does not like going through middlemen.  His dipping sauces and soups are heavenly. His tempura is the considered better than tempura shops - crispy and light and always seasonal. i have been visiting Hosokawa's shop for years, every time I am in Japan I make a pilgrimage to his shop and go home enlightened.  But the only contact I had ever with him is his occasional audible yelling at one of the apprentices or calling out an order.  

But one day in July, a muggy hot day, I went to his shop in the early evening by myself to have a slurp of his soba and basically try as many dishes as I can manage.  When I got to the second dish of an eggplant served with miso, I couldn't help but ask if the eggplant was deep fried or barised. It was so sweet and tender, yet not greasy at all. The way the scallions and bell peppers adorned the dish was so lovely that I wanted to make conatct with the chef.  He suddenly appeared before me and came out of the kitchen personally to answer my question.  I was completely humbled. 

Hosokawa was much slimmer than the man I had seen in pictures, but there was the smile and the edokko style towel wrapped around his head. I learned later that he had been ill with intenstinal cancer and had been absent for sometime. He was slowly making a comeback when I went to the shop but in a short time, his assistant had ran away and was short of help. He seemed tired and needed to bounce his feelings to someone so willing  to listen like me.  I told him I live in Los Angeles and I love soba and I make soba.  He was interested in me and for the next 15 minutes, ( I was the last customer of the day), we had a conversation about soba - something that revealed who he was -  the artistry that he brought to each dish he created.  I knew that perhaps this is the moment to to ask if he would le me come to his kitchen and watch him make soba.  He said, sure. I had called him a number of times before to see if he would teach me soba but he was too busy back then that he had cancelled the workshop. I was delighted by the idea to watch him make soba - he asked me to call him
when I came back to Japan again, which I told him I would in December.

I called him the week before leaving for Japan. He answered the phone and remembered who I was. He invited me to come at 8am to his shop in Ryogoku. It would be an hour train ride from my parents' house in Shibuya.  I marked the date on my calendar. It was set for December 13, 2012.

I knew this experience was going to allow me to go back to the beginning and learn soba all over again.



Hachiya Persimmons Hoshigaki - The Art of Drying Fruit

Posted on December 5, 2012 at 10:50 AM Comments comments (0)

Fall has come to LA and it is still lingering.  I spent the month of November exploring Hachiya Persimmons - a fruit that I didn't care for as a child.

I loved to look at persimmon trees especially in the autumn when the leaves change bright red. My mother would make pressed salmon sushi wrapped in those beautiful crismon color leaves. But I didn't look forward to eating any type of persimmon. It was a common tree, like an orange or lemon tree is in Los Angeles. We took the persimmon for granted and when my mother served wedges of persimmon as dessert instead of a pear on an apple, I wouldn't eat it because I didn't like the flavor. It reminded me of the tropical fruits like mango and papaya that I didn't care for while living in Mexico.  My mother told us that persimmon was the only fruit available to eat during the war. She and my uncle would climb neighbors' persimmon trees to steal the fruit, and sometimes they got into trouble.

 

Palates can change over time. I am now completely hooked on persimmon and it happened this year. I had encounters with the most deliciously ripe Hachiya persimmon, gelatinous and floral in fragrance, and the sweetest crispiest Fuyu persimmon; I also discovered Chocolate persimmon - that has a brownish meat. It tasted similar to Fuyu - crispy and refreshing.  I became hooked on persimmons, so much so that I decided to even take a hoshigaki -dried persimmon workshop so I can learn how to preserve the persimmons and enjoy them even when they are not in season. Here is the story about Hoshigaki making, which I wrote for Zester Daily. (here is the link).  



Fall in Tehachapi

Posted on October 31, 2012 at 6:10 AM Comments comments (2)

Back at the ranch for a couple days of rest.  I have been working 24/7 since August on Common Grains. My blog got completely neglected.  Fall is a good time to begin again.  I worked hard pruning the old grapes vines and apples trees past spring in hopes to bring them back to health.  Healthy they became but the wild animals feasted on most of  the fruit while we were absent. I walked along the grape vines and couldn't find a single grape on the vine.  We hope to spend more time on the ranch, after we finish restoring our house in Highland Park.  I am happy to just be in Tehachapi, whenever I can.


I love our trees.  We walk around the property and visit each tree everytime we are here. We have lots of mature trees and about 50 new trees that we planted this year.  Popular, sycamore, maple, apricot, persimmon, walnut, ash, cherry... Half of the new trees were damaged by the critters but those that survived the ordeal are doing okay. Sakai's mended the broken branches and put in an irrigation system that is working, finally.  We want to plant more trees next year. Figure trees take about 15-30 years to mature.  if we could stick around for awhile, this ranch is going to look amazing.



The apricot tree is particularly gorgeous in red. 



The old walnut tree gave us so much joy this year. We didn't even know what kind of tree it was for a long time.  It produced tons of nuts. The green fruit cracked open and some of the nuts had fallen on the ground. The critters ate about 1/3 of the harvest but there were plenty more to be had so Sakai brought over a ladder and we spent the morning picking the nuts.  Ana and Kurokin came along and sat under the tree and kept guard.  I'd never seen walnuts this big.  



Soba-to-go - A Summer Gig

Posted on August 13, 2012 at 1:05 AM Comments comments (2)
Summer Soba Salad 

The Summer of 2012 has been emotional and joyous   -  my son Sakae and BInah got married and my stepson Tyler and Emmalina had a baby.  It has also been physical and floury  - doing the noodle gig and getting slowly back into yoga.  My hands and clothes were crusted with flour all summer long.


The  fresh hand cut soba noodles are made for Cookbook in Echo Park and Ai restaurant in South Pasadena since May. I make the noodles on Tuesday and Thursday mornings for delivery before 11am.  It is  like doing yoga in the morning.  I sometimes arrive late to my yoga class on my noodle making mornings and apologiz to Art, my yoga teacher. But he totally gets what I am doing.   "You don't even have to come to yoga, just make your noodles. That's yoga."   

I have had my good days and bad days with soba.  A hot dry day in Pasadena can ruin your soba noodles.  It happened a couple of times. I couldn't get the water ratio right (the dough came out too soft or too dry)and had to dump my dough in the compost bin and start all over again. This is not fun when you know you have 50 servings to make before 10 am.  Making noodles with a pasta machine would be the no brainer route but the whole practice is done by hand so there are no short cuts in soba.  Working with buckwheat is a humbling experience. Besides being delicious, that's one of the reasons what I love about soba. 


The noodles-to-go are uncooked.  There are two servings in a box. So there is some work involved for the cook.  It comes with dipping sauce and condiments. My idea was to let people try making fresh handcut soba noodles at home. Making the noodles have been a lot of work but the response has been very good.  My noodles at Cookbook almost always sell out.

To cook the noodles, simply boil them in a pot of lots of water as you would do pasta.  Drop the noodles gently in the boiling water and cook for 70-90 seconds. Scoop the noodles out of the boiling water with a strainer and then quickly rinse and massage them under cold water to remove the scum.  Shock them in ice cold water with lots of ice cubes (I use a bowlful) . Allow the noodles to soak in the ice water for about 5 seconds to firm them up. Finally,  drain the water thoroughly.  Water left on the noodles can affect the taste of the noodles so this step is important.  Serve the noodles immediately. Don't let them sit around. They start to get mushy and dry.


The soba noodles can be also be served like a salad.  Pile some chopped summer greens and veggies on top of the noodles.  Add the sauce with a drizzle of olive or truffle oil.  So yummy.   My summer gig at Cookbook will end in August.  I will continue making noodles for Ai.




August 4 celebration

Posted on August 11, 2012 at 7:45 PM Comments comments (2)



My son Sakae got married last week in Vancouver, Canada.  I only took one picture during the wedding, which is this bouquet that my father sent to my son Sakae and Binah for their wedding celebration.  I just wanted to be totally present, without any interruption.  It was a beautiful wedding. I am still waiting for the official pictures.  Binah is Chinese so there was a lot of red in the otherwise white wedding. Red has a way of really brightening up everything.  I have been back to LA for a week but with relatives in town, we were really busy.  I am tired but happy to open the new chapter in my life.  Coincidentally, Tyler, Sakai's son, had his first baby boy on the same day. He was due to be born on that day so Tyler and Emmalina could not attend the wedding. The baby arrived on the same day as schedued. The timing couldn't be better.  So I became a step-obachama, too.  


Warm Buttermilk biscuits with honey and butter

Posted on July 15, 2012 at 10:55 AM Comments comments (2)

 

My friend Sherry is a wonderful baker.  When she and her husband Fred invite us over to their house, she will often leave mid-way during dinner to whip something up and stick her doughy creation in the oven.  Last time I was at her house, she made biscuits and served them warm with some strawberries and whipped cream.  They tasted heavenly.  What's amazing is that she does it with ease and she never fails.  I went home and dreamt about eating those biscuits again but couldn't wait,  so I decided baking some myself.

There are several cookbooks I use when I bake besides the Joy of Cooking. They are  Dorie Greenspan's Baking, Tom Keller's  Ad Hoc and  Elizabeth Alston's Biscuits and Scones. My cookbook editor, Pam gave me Alston's book nearly twenty years ago while I was working on my Japanese cookbook. Alston's book sat on my shelf collecting dust until I rediscovered it rather recently.  Sometimes it's good to go through the library and revisit old cookbooks.  
Alston's book is small but packed with over sixty recipes on biscuits and scones.  The one I made this morning is your basic buttermilk biscuits.  My technique is slowly improving with practice. Since I have to buy a whole quart of buttermilk (for some reason, you can't buy in smaller sizes),  I make a large batch.  Per Greenspan's advise, I keep some unbaked biscuits in the freezer and pop them in the oven to bake when I want some.  Per Keller's advise, I add some cake flour to the dry mixture for extra lightness.  It works.


I served the warm buttermilk biscuits with butter and honey.  As always, I used my grandmother's butterknife to spread the butter.    If I had some fried chicken to go with the biscuits, it would be a perfect Norht Carolina dinner. 

Elizabeth Alston's modified
Good with Anything Buttermilk Biscuits recipe:

The recipe is modified to include a little cake flour.
You can also make it without the cake flour. Just increase the
all purpose flour by 1/4 cup.

1 3/4 cups all purppose flour
1/4 cup cake flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon salt
5 tablespoons cold unsalted butter cut up
2/3 cup buttermilk

Heat oven to 450F.  PUt lfour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt into a large bowl; stir to mix well.

Add buttter an d cut in with your fingers, until the mixture looks like ifne granules.

Add buttermilk and stir with a fork until a soft dough forms. Turn out dough onto a lightly floured board and give 10-15 kneads.  

Roll dough to an 8-8.5 inch circle (1/2 to 3/4 inch thick).  Cut out with a 2 or 2.5 inch plain biscuit cutter.  
Plase biscuits on a ungreased sheet and bake for 12-14 minutes, untle medium golden brown.  LIne a wire cooling rack with a line or cotton dish towel.  Put the hot biscuits on the cloth and fold the cloth loosely over them. Cool at leaset 30 minutes for best flavor.

Serve with honey and butter.

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